Český Krumlov and Canoeing on the Vltava River with Kids

Nestled in the heart of South Bohemia, Český Krumlov is a picturesque town that offers a perfect blend of history, culture, and outdoor activities. It is the destination that many foreigners know besides Prague. We decided to spend the extended camping weekend here, mixing in some exploring of narrow streets, sightseeing, and canoeing on the Vltava River.

We chose to stay at one of the camps on the riverbank, about 10 km from Český Krumlov, called “Kemp Viking”. We were among the first visitors of the upcoming season, and there was everything we needed – hot showers, a great playground, and a restaurant with homemade meals. And a very friendly owner was a bonus 😊.

Canoeing on the Vltava River

I believe the Vltava is the top canoeing and rafting destination for Czechs, and the local canoe rental companies are well prepared for it. Renting a canoe or raft — along with all the necessary equipment like life vests and waterproof barrels — is easy and spending a day or two on the gentle current is a fantastic experience.

We rented our boats directly at the camp, and they transported them upstream to Vyšší Brod along with us. However, since it was just the beginning of the canoeing season, everything was still quiet. If you’re planning a trip during the summer months, I recommend organizing everything well in advance.

On the first day, we paddled about 25 km from Vyssi Brod to Camp Viking. Paddling down the river in this area is like going back in time. There are two towns to go through: Vyšší Brod, known for its Cistercian monastery, and Rožmberk, with its beautiful castle on the hill that the river winds around. For the rest of the journey, there are just green forests and meadows, the sound of water gurgling, and sometimes a spot in the middle of nowhere where you can buy something to eat or drink.

The second day involved just under 25 km of paddling again. We started at the camp and finished in Zlatá Koruna. It was more challenging than the first day because there were more weirs along the way. That meant we had to carry the boats around the weirs we didn’t want to sail through, and overall, we had to paddle more, as the water tends to be still above weirs.

The scenery at the beginning felt a bit apocalyptic — we passed the paper factory in Větřní, paddling through a shabby industrial complex where nature had started to reclaim the space. Then came a weir near the climbing spot known as “Parrot Rock,” and after that, we paddled a bit further to reach the historic center of Český Krumlov.

The reward for our effort was the magical sail through Český Krumlov itself. The river winds around the historic city center, and it’s breathtaking to see the centuries-old buildings perched on steep riverbanks, their reflections dancing in the water. There’s a great spot to stop just below the castle at the “island,” where we left our boats on the bank and treated ourselves to a meal and some well-deserved ice cream.

And then the river winds through lush greenery down to the weir at Zlatá Koruna — the final slide of our journey. There, we loaded the boats onto the trailer and were taken back to the camp.

Kids liked the activity although they didn’t manage to paddle the whole journey they were more passengers 😊 We managed to paddle about 50 km in two days, which is quite an achievement! Of course, there’s always the option to rent a boat for a shorter trip if you just want to get a taste of canoeing.

We used plastic canoes, which are faster compared to rafts but also less stable — they can flip more easily. I can confirm that myself! Our boat flipped after descending a weir, and we took a refreshing swim in 8°C water in the heart of Český Krumlov. Despite the mishap, we created unforgettable memories for our friends and families. I’m pretty sure the Japanese tourists watching from the bridge above enjoyed the show too!

A few safety notes to end with: the Vltava River around Český Krumlov is generally considered safe and suitable for families. However, as with any water sport, there’s always some level of risk. Wearing life vests in the canoe at all times is a must. We were a group with some experience, which helped. It’s easy to arrange canoe and gear rentals, but if you’re unsure, it’s always better to go with a professional guide or organized trip.

Český Krumlov with kids

The next day was dedicated to exploring Český Krumlov. The kids loved wandering through the narrow streets, gazing at the colorful shop windows filled with all kinds of trinkets and baubles. 😊 The air was filled with the delightful scent of food and sweets, adding to the magical atmosphere. We also came across several stalls in a small square. There’s also a small playground tucked between a restaurant and an Italian café on a little street near the river.

A visit to Český Krumlov wouldn’t be complete without exploring the castle. It’s massive, and there are several options for touring the interior. We decided to stick to the exterior, wanting to make the most of the beautiful weather and enjoy the stunning views. The kids’ favorite part was watching the bears at the castle entrance (although I’m not sure how long they’ll remain there, as there’s an ongoing discussion about whether bears shouldn’t be rather kept in zoos). It was also wonderful to see the town from above, with the river winding through it, and the castle gardens are truly beautiful and well worth a stroll.

There are plenty of options for museums and indoor activities in Český Krumlov. One of our favorites was the historical playground at the Krumlov Monasteries. As soon as you step inside, you’re transported straight into the Middle Ages — you can see it, smell it, and even touch it. Both kids and adults can try on historical costumes, and there’s a monk’s cell that shows how people once lived in the monastery.

Children can sit in a scriptorium and write a message with a quill, just like medieval scribes. In another room, they’ll learn how books were printed after the invention of the printing press — and they can even print their own postcard!

In the apothecary, they’ll discover all kinds of herbs and seeds and even make their own herbal oil or bath salt.There’s also a large room filled with wooden toys and a puppet theatre, perfect for imaginative play.

Kids can head down into the cellar, where an alchemist’s mysterious laboratory awaits, and up under the roof, there’s a slightly spooky exhibition featuring wandering souls and a 3D model of Český Krumlov.

We also visited the Moldavite Museum. Moldavites are mysterious green gemstones formed by a meteorite impact millions of years ago, and the museum brings their story to life through interactive exhibits, glowing displays, and even the chance to touch real moldavite. It’s a fantastic way to spark curiosity about space, geology, and natural history — all right in the heart of the old town.

There are plenty of other fun options for both younger and older kids too — a graphite mine tour with a mine train ride, a mirror labyrinth, a puppet museum & fairytale house, and a wax museum. I had them all on our bucket list in case of bad weather, but they’ll have to wait for our next visit.

Český Krumlov is undoubtedly a gem, but the surrounding region is just as full of family-friendly adventures waiting to be discovered. Just a short drive away, Lipno Lake offers endless fun for kids — from swimming and paddleboarding to bike trails and treetop walks. In České Budějovice, families can enjoy a relaxed stroll through the historic center, grab a sweet treat in one of the local cafés, or hop on a little sightseeing train. And don’t miss Hluboká Castle, a real fairy-tale experience with towers to admire, gardens to explore, and a nearby zoo that’s perfect for younger visitors. It’s a small and cozy zoo with a special focus on animals native to Czech forests, making it both educational and enjoyable for kids.

You can find all the places mentioned on the map below. Click on the image to open it in Mapy.com.

If your children love animals, don’t forget to check out my free e-book with a full list of the best zoos in Czechia.